Font Blanche

I was working my way along the GR 98 around this time, this being what I thought would be one of the less exciting sections of it. My plan was to drive to Aubagne, get a bus to Col de l'Ange, walk to Cassis and then get a bus back to Aubagne. Leaving the house around 8.30 in the morning I drove to Aubagne in search of the bus station. The bus to Cuges-les-Pins didn’t leave till 10.00, which was just as well since I needed the hour I had in order to find it. Other than that, however, the system worked well – I knew that I only had to reach Cassis in time to get the 16.25 bus back to Aubagne. I got off at the Col de l’Ange at 10.20 and set off up the D1, a winding narrow road through woods with no walkway beside it. Not many cars, but plenty of cyclists.

It was a relief to turn off onto the rocky track which led up onto the crest and finally to the summit of Font Blanche. This was my first trip with my new digital camera, so I was experimenting with the self-timer – now I could have pictures of myself even on solo walks! Having got onto the crest I found that the mistral, which had been gusting to 130 km/h in Marseille two days before, was still alive and well up there. It was typical sunny weather, however, so I didn’t really mind the wind. There weren’t many people about, but I did meet the occasional group of walkers or mountain bikers.

The summit of Font Blanche

View over La Ciotat on the descent from Font Blanche

After coming down from Font Blanche I had a look inside the Cabanon du Marquis, the French version of a bothy. It seemed remarkably similar to a Scottish bothy. One nice feature was the picnic table outside, and in fact I stopped at the next one, the Cabanon des Gardes, to have lunch. As I finished a group of four came and sat down with me to have theirs, and I left, assuring them that I’d been about to go anyway. It was still windy there, though more sheltered than on the crest.

This watchtower perched on top of a prominent hill intrigued me. I soon learned that forest fires are a constant danger during the summer months in this area and such watchtowers are dotted all over the hills.

Looking eastwards along the coast

Next came the descent to the autoroute. On the map the walk along beside the A50 for 2 km looked fairly horrible, but in fact it was fine. The path was high above the road, with nice views and only distant noise.

I was soon at the Pas de Bellefille and away from the roads again, now climbing up the range of hills which overlook Cassis from the east. My legs were getting tired by now, but thankfully my knee gave no trouble at all. Anyway, this last climb of the day was worth it for the views over Cassis to the Calanques.

The Couronne de Charlemagne with Sainte-Baume in the distance

The best view was from the TV relay station on the Baou de la Saoupe, from where the GR went down by the access road, winding round into Cassis by the Plage de l’Arène.

I got to the port and sat down to watch the pétanque games and eat my Mars Bar. It was only twenty to four, so I took a leisurely stroll through the town to get to the bus stop by the Gendarmerie and waited for the bus. Back in Aubagne it was a relief to get back to the car and take off my boots – my feet hurt after walking on stony paths and roads most of the day. Finally I drove back to Marseille arriving almost exactly when I’d expected, at half past five.