The Five Sisters (SE)

29.7.00 - Glen Shiel Trip, Day 4 - 6km, 950m - 182 mins

Area 11: Glen Affric and Kintail

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Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe1027m3369ftM105#69
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Beinn Fhada from the Bealach an Lapain

This final day of our trip to Glen Shiel was restricted by the fact that I had to be back in Perth to catch the 20.51 train to Edinburgh. Glen Shiel was very misty when we got up at 7am - not a very promising start, but, I thought, after three beautiful days we can't complain. We had decided to finish off the Five Sisters by climbing Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, and I expected a steep walk up to the misty bealach and then a wet and uninteresting tramp round the ridge in cloud. We left the car at 10am, after some searching around for the most promising looking path, then began what was a steep but not too tedious climb, as we had indeed found a good path. Halfway up we were surprised to see the sun just appearing hazily above us, and by the time we reached the Bealach an Lapain we were confronted with a breathtaking view of mist-filled Glen Lichd, with the hills on the far side against a blue sky.

Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe and Sgurr na Spainteach from the east

Thereafter the walk along the ridge was clear, with mist coming and going on either side, giving intermittent views of the South Glen Shiel Ridge, the other Sisters, and the hills south of Alltbeithe. So it was sun cream weather once again, the air was still (for a 900m ridge) and the sun was warm.

Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe from Sgurr na Spainteach

It seemed to take ages to reach Sgurr na Spainteach, which at 990m is a Munro top but not a separate Munro. The section beyond, to Sgurr na Ciste Dubh, was quicker, and we sat for about 45 minutes on the summit, where there was a large, neatly built cairn, enjoying the views and basking in our achievements of the past four days.

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Sgurr na Spainteach from Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe

Sgurr na Spainteach from Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe

Looking up Glen Shiel from Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe

By now we had abandoned any idea of returning along the ridge to snap up Saileag, and Alasdair "Flanker" Maclaren had the brilliant idea of leaving the ridge just before the short pitch, and striking down diagonally towards the car, taking us to the Cluanie Inn in time for tea and scones. This plan worked successfully, and my knee did well, despite the long and fairly steep descent - I was using one of Isdale's sticks again.

Felled forest below the Bealach an Lapain

Felled forest below the Bealach an Lapain

Ciste Dhubh and Am Bathach from the Cluanie Inn car park

After the tea and scones there was the long drive home in intermittent sun and showers. For Alasdair and Isdale the 2000 season was now over, however I was busy planning my next trip - the Cairngorms. After a fish (or in my case, white pudding) supper in Perth we parted. It was Isdale who had suggested on the way home that I should join them again next summer, which I was certainly very happy to do. This was the first time I had actually been on a trip with other "self-respecting Munroists", as we jokingly referred to ourselves, and I had decided that it was far more fun than solo trips.

The Cluanie Inn

<U>The Three Munroists of Kintail</U>

One was a topper, he was going for topping fame
And one was a flanker and he played the flanking game
And one wasn't bothered, but he climbed them just the same
And they all came down together, in the evening rain

One took Seton Gordon as his mentor and his guide
And one always had his trusty map-case by his side
And one had two Leki sticks to keep him in his stride
But all three were Sir Hugh's men and they ticked the lists with pride!

One was in his sixties, which his looks would not betray
And one was in his seventies, still eager for the fray
And one was past a hundred, though he didn't like to say
But they all thought it cracking to do seven in a day

One had a sort of net, that kept them off, he said
And one went around with a stocking on his head
And one lit a 'tiger' and smoked them off instead
But they'd all been bitten by the time they got to bed…

They didn't mind dispensing with their TVs and their fridges
They didn't mind the drizzle and the sunburn and the midges
They counted these as nothing for the best of privileges:
Their four days of freedom to stravaig along the ridges!