Sgurr nan Coireachan & Sgurr Thuilm

11.5.17 - Mallaig & Glenfinnan Trip, Day 4 - 24km, 1547m - 475 mins

Area 10: Loch Eil to Glen Shiel

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Sgurr nan Coireachan956m3137ftM206#213
Sgurr Thuilm963m3159ftM193#214
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Looking down Loch Shiel from the side of Tom na h-Aire

Having climbed the Lochailort Pyramids on Tuesday, and Fraoch-bheinn (the east top of the Corbett Sgurr an Utha, directly above Glenfinnan) on Wednesday, by Thursday I was ready for the big walk, the two Munros at the head of Glen Finnan. I was up early and off at about quarter past six over the little footpath that climbs from the station over the side of Tom na-h-Aire, the south-eastern outlier of Fraoch-bheinn. This shortens the distance very slightly but adds about 60m to the total ascent.

The Glenfinnan Viaduct

The footpath is also a great vantage point for the Glenfinnan Viaduct and I even managed to get a photo of a train on its way over - not the Hogwarts Express, admittedly, nor even the Jacobite steam train - it may have been the Caledonian Sleeper.

The viaduct from below

Down below, I joined the track up Glen Finnan, passing under the viaduct, and, sadly, now practically down at sea level again.

Information plaque on the viaduct, "a pioneer work in mass concrete"

Information plaque on the viaduct, "a pioneer work in mass concrete"

Deer in Glen Finnan

The walk up Glen Finnan is a long walk in, about 5km from the viaduct to the start of the ascent of Sgurr nan Coireachan, but it is pleasant enough. A small herd of deer grazing by the river added a bit of excitement to the walk as well.

Looking back down the glen

Looking back down the glen

The start of the ascent

A small gnome-sized signpost marks the start of the path up Sgurr nan Coireachan, which would be easy enough to spot without the sign. Now the ascent would begin in earnest.

Looking across to Druim Coire a’Bheithe

The path is relentless, climbing 700m in the space of 2.5km to reach the top of Sgurr a’Choire Riabhaich at a height of 852m.

The view back down the glen from Sgurr a’Choire Riabhaich

The view back down the glen from Sgurr a’Choire Riabhaich

Sgurr Thuilm seen from the ascent

Sgurr Thuilm seen from the ascent

Looking south to Fraoch-bheinn

Once at the summit of Sgurr a’Choire Riabhaich the worst of the climbing was over for the day and I could enjoy a well-earned rest. To the south I could see Fraoch-bheinn, where I had been the day before.

Sgurr nan Coireachan from Sgurr a’Choire Riabhaich

From here there was still a 50m drop and then a 150m climb to the first Munro, Sgurr nan Coireachan, but it was a fairly easy walk in excellent conditions. The day was quite hazy with a fair bit of cloud, but all the tops were clear all day.

The summit of Sgurr Thuilm still looking a long way off

The ridge walk was lovely, punctuated, as is so often the case, with picturesque lochans perched in unlikely locations along the way.

The summit trig point of Sgurr nan Coireachan, with Loch Arkaig in the distance

I reached the summit of Sgurr nan Coireachan at about 10 to 11. The walk had taken four and a half hours so far, but I had been taking it fairly easy and I knew that the worst was definitely over. Plus, I had all day to get round and would be arriving back right where I was staying for the night, a rare luxury.

Looking west from Meall an Tarmachain over Beinn Gharbh (I think)

The next bump on the ridge was Meall an Tarmachain, from where Sgurr Thuilm still looked quite distant. However, I was making progress.

Sgurr nan Coireachan from Meall an Tarmachain

Sgurr nan Coireachan from Meall an Tarmachain

Looking back along the ridge westwards

Looking back along the ridge westwards

Another picturesque lochan, Sgurr a’Choire Riabhaich beyond

Another picturesque lochan, Sgurr a’Choire Riabhaich beyond

Sgurr Thuilm drawing ever closer

Sgurr Thuilm drawing ever closer

Sgurr Thuilm from Beinn Gharbh

Sgurr Thuilm from Beinn Gharbh

The ridge in all its glory, from the final ascent of Sgurr Thuilm

The ridge in all its glory, from the final ascent of Sgurr Thuilm

Sgurr Thuilm - almost there!

Sgurr Thuilm - almost there!

Looking back along the ridge from Sgurr Thuilm

By this time the sun was out and the sun cream was on. There were beautiful views all round from the summit of Sgurr Thuilm, the high point of the day, both literally and figuratively. I reached the summit at about 20 past 1, so the ridge between the two Munros had taken me an hour and a half. I didn't stick around too long, but soon began the long descent down Druim Coire a'Bheithe.

Beginning the descent along Druim Coire a'Bheithe

Beginning the descent along Druim Coire a'Bheithe

I think this is probably the view east to Streap

I think this is probably the view east to Streap

The view down Glen Finnan from Druim Coire a'Bheithe

As I reached the nose of Druim Coire a'Bheithe the glen opened up below me and I began to think of a leisurely rest stop at the bottom somewhere by the river.

Looking back up at the ridge

Looking back up at the ridge

Rest stop by the burn

I got down off the ridge at around 10 past 3, having taken it easy on the way down. I then found a lovely spot by the burn, got my boots off, bathed my feet, and rested for about 45 minutes.

The view back up the glen, dominated here by Druim Coire a'Bheithe

However, the long walk out was still ahead of me and by four o'clock I was making my way back down along the track. The sun was still shining and it was a beautiful afternoon.

Back on the path above the viaduct

At last I got back to the viaduct and forced my weary legs to take the shortcut over the footpath once more.

Glen Shiel once more, and just over the hill, Glenfinnan

These were the first Munros I had climbed in three years and I was pleased with the fact that I had managed such a big day. Little did I think that it would be another five years before I added another new Munro to my count!